Why people love oval engagement rings

Universally flattering

The elongated outline has a naturally slimming, lengthening effect that many find flattering across hand and finger types. The softly rounded ends read feminine and elegant without feeling fussy.

Bigger look per carat

Thanks to a generous face-up spread, ovals typically appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight — more finger coverage without increasing carat.

Timeless yet modern

An oval blends classic brilliant-cut sparkle with a distinctive silhouette — timeless and contemporary at once. The oval cut dates back to the 1960s, created by master cutter Lazare Kaplan, and has remained a favourite ever since.

What we see at Layla Diamonds
Four in every ten rings we currently sell feature an oval cut — our most-requested shape among UK brides who want classic brilliance with a refined, modern edge.

Ideal L:W ratio • 1.40–1.50

Optical brilliance & shape advantage

Understanding the bow tie effect (and how to avoid a harsh one)

Look closely at most oval diamonds and you’ll notice a shadow across the centre — the bow tie effect. Every oval displays it to some degree because of how light travels through an elongated shape.

Comparison of two oval diamonds showing the bow tie effect — darker vs minimal.

• Why it happens: Bow ties appear when light is lost through the diamond’s pavilion facets, producing a central shadow.
• What to prefer: A subtle, translucent “white” bow tie adds depth and can be charming. Avoid dense, black bow ties that absorb light and make the centre look dull.
• What influences it: The facet design and alignment. In general, denser, well-aligned facet patterns help diffuse the bow tie; shallow or poorly aligned cuts tend to produce stronger black bands.
• Proportions matter: The longer the stone (higher length-to-width ratio), the greater the chance of a prominent bow tie. If you want to minimise the effect, opt for a slightly shorter ratio within the ideal range.

Ideal length-to-width ratio: For a balanced, elegant look with strong light performance, many clients love 1.40–1.50. Lower ratios (~1.30s) look wider; higher ratios (≥1.55) look very elongated and may increase the risk of a strong bow tie.

Sparkle, fire, and light performance

Ovals are a modified brilliant cut, so they can deliver exceptional scintillation and fire. But performance varies dramatically with cut quality, facet alignment, symmetry, and polish. Avoid judging by certificate alone; two GIA “Excellent/Excellent” stones can look very different in motion.

Versatility in design

From a minimalist solitaire to a diamond hidden halo, side stones, or an east–west orientation, ovals adapt beautifully.

• Timeless solitaires and cathedral settings for clean, elevated lines.
• Hidden halos or a diamond bridge for discreet sparkle beneath the centre stone.
• Two-tone sophistication: platinum claws for crispness against warm gold bands.
• Side-stone pairings: tapered baguettes, pears, or petite ovals — or go east-west for a contemporary twist.

Modern popularity & celebrity appeal

What the oval symbolises

The oval’s graceful loop represents continuity and devotion, while its elongated form suggests growth and balance — a quietly powerful emblem for a love that evolves beautifully over time.

The Layla Diamonds touch

• Hand-selected in Hatton Garden: Each centre stone is chosen by our gemmologists for superior light performance.
• Hallmarked authenticity: Your ring bears our signature marks and London assay hallmarking.
• Bespoke details: hidden halos, floating heads, elegant cathedral shoulders, and hallmark engraving options.
• Handcrafted to order: Never mass-produced — made for your story, your proportions, your taste.

Crafted in London • Private consultations • Bespoke design

Key considerations when choosing an oval

• Cut quality first: Prioritise light performance over carat weight.
• Ratio & outline: Aim for 1.40–1.50; check that the outline is pleasing and symmetrical.
• Bow tie: Prefer a subtle/white bow tie; avoid harsh black bands.
• Clarity & colour in context: Balance with cut; evaluate in person if possible.
• Lighting test: Compare stones under different lights and at arm’s length.
• Setting synergy: Pick a mount that enhances your stone’s proportions and sparkle.

Thinking about choosing an oval?

If you’re considering an oval engagement ring, we recommend viewing stones in different lights and comparing length-to-width ratios side by side. This helps you see how the bow tie presents and which proportions feel right to you.

Frequently Asked Questions About Oval Engagement Rings